Engine tuning comes down to two things: hardware that is designed and fitted properly, and a calibration written to match it. I work on factory ECUs, fuel, ignition and boost, and on standalone systems like Haltech and Megasquirt, from modern direct injection through to converting a carburetted classic to EFI. Every calibration is finished on the dyno, with the critical parameters watched under load, so the result is efficient, reliable and safe before it leaves.
Power is only useful if the chassis can put it down and the brakes can take it back. I set the car up for how you actually drive it, anywhere from firm but comfortable to full race spec. Ride heights and corner weights, damper and spring rates matched to the use, alignment and geometry adjusted to suit. Brakes get the same treatment: pad compound chosen for the job, fluid that will not boil, and a firm pedal every time.
On the street that means a car that feels planted and predictable without punishing you. On the track it means one that stops arguing with you.
A car is one system. Tuning the engine without touching the chassis, or the other way round, leaves most of what you paid for on the table. I plan the two as a package so the result is coherent, not just faster in a straight line.
What the car is worth is what happens when the rubber hits the pavement. Everything else is just speculation.
Where the car is driven, what it is for, and what it does now that you do not like. Then I can tell you what is worth doing and what is not.
Salida, Colorado 
I see cars from Buena Vista, Gunnison, Crested Butte, Montrose and Aspen. By appointment.
Also: European car service · BMW · Porsche · Sprinter vans · Diagnostics · Transmission
